Last Updated: Aug 1, 2020 @ 9:39 am

DIY building chicken grazing boxes that keep greens available to cooped chickens

Our farm has long been home to chickens. Often they spend daylight hours free-ranging, but for various reasons, many days the chickens stay confined to their 100 year old coop and a 10 foot by 12 foot fenced run.

Early in my chicken keeping, I was frustrated by chickens pulling up and eating any plant that sprouted in their enclosed run. Each spring, I’d try a new attempt at keeping even a portion of the run green, and usually fail. One year, I experimented with fences to “rest” sections of the run long enough to establish growth, however, my chickens had an impressive ability to move even well-anchored fencing. Although I found a combination of hacks that keep green growth in my coop year-round, my experiment with these elevated mesh boxes were so successful they’ve got their own tutorial below. 

These grazing boxes create a protective buffer between delicate root systems and the ravenous beaks and scratching claws above. This riser provides just enough protection to young plants so that cool weather grasses can grow year-round, providing forage in winder months when free-ranging is more difficult.

My Grazing Boxes Experiment:

Inspired by noticing grass growing through a scrap metal grate in a scrapyard, in 2011 I decided to experiment with small sections of hardware cloth (wire mesh with openings about 1/4″ x 1/4″ wide) that I had leftover after another project, stapled over a 2×4 frame. The elevated design prevents the chickens from damaging the roots of the grass.

This is one of the easiest DIY’s I’ve ever built! I’ve outlined steps below, but essentially you’ll just need to make frames with 2×4’s, and add supports every 12-16 inches to prevent heavy hens from forcing the mesh top to sag (which would allow beaks to damage the grass underneath.) With the hardware cloth firmly stapled to the frames, these frames help provide my chickens with fresh grass for 9-10 months out of the year. When finished, planted, and sprouted, the chickens neatly “mow” the grass, through the mesh, without damaging the roots.

this frame with mesh top makes it easy to grow fresh greens even in a crowded chicken coop 12

How to Build Chicken Grazing Boxes:

You’ll Need:

  • 2×4 Lumber (Pressure Treated will last longer) Cut to lengths of 24 inches and 18 inches. Save your scraps for the final step.
  • A Kreg Jig (most sturdy construction) or Corner Brackets (flimsier and may require corner braces)
  • Staple Gun (did you know electric staple guns are a thing? They are, and they are AWESOME)
  • 1/4″ Opening Hardware Cloth (Substitute anything else on this list, but do NOT sub out this hardware cloth for another. Smaller openings will block sunlight and prevent grass growth, larger openings will allow beaks to pick at roots, and any non-metal material will stretch and let the chickens kill the grass underneath)

Step 1: Frame Box

Using two long pieces of wood and two short ones, frame a box using whatever method you are comfortable with. I used a Kreg Jig because it makes a very sturdy frame very quickly, but if you don’t work with wood much, basic corner brackets should work if you aren’t planning on regularly moving your grazing boxes around the chicken run.

this frame with mesh top makes it easy to grow fresh greens even in a crowded chicken coop 52

Step 2: Cut Hardware Cloth

Unroll hardware cloth over the frame and cut to size. Thankfully the grid makes cutting the hardware cloth lots easier!  You can use snips, wirecutters, or pliers for this project. (Briefly, during my stint making horse head wreaths, I even had a pair of electric snips and cutting stuff like this was like cutting through butter!)

Step 3: Attach Mesh to Frame

Using roughly double the number of staples you think you should need, staple the hardware cloth onto the wood frame. Double up on staples to account for chunky hens sitting on the this mesh, sometimes in pairs or groups, putting pressure on the staples.

this frame with mesh top makes it easy to grow fresh greens even in a crowded chicken coop 51

Step 4. Add Supports

My first attempt at grazing boxes didn’t have supports in the center, and my cleverest hen learned that by plopping her full body weight down in the center of the hardware cloth, she could cause it to sag just enough to pull the most tender shoots of young grass up by the roots.

To make sure the grass has a chance to grow strong roots before being pecked, use the scraps of your lumber to create a few points of support. Just place under the grazing box on your workbench and use the staple gun to add sufficient staples to hold the block in place.

Can you see the slight sag in the wire mesh from the weight of sitting chickens? Added supports keep the chickens far enough from the roots to prevent damage to the roots of the grass underneath.

Best Grass Types for Grazing Boxes:

After trying a few seed types,  I was blown away by the success of using oat grass. Oat grass grows in 3 seasons (and even through mild winters!), can be planted without digging or tilling, and has roots strong enough to stay firmly planted in the ground when chicken beaks pull at the shoots of grass reaching through the mesh.

Oat grass is true to its name- it’s just a juvenile version of the plant that produces the familiar oat. A three-pound bag of oat grass seeds marketed for sprouting should cover about 15 plantings of grazing boxes the size shown here (but buying whole oat animal feed in 40lb bags from a local feed store is a better value, if you plan to plant often!). Other unprocessed whole grains can be planted in the boxes and experimented with, just be sure the grain hasn’t been treated to prevent sprouting, or heated to a high temperature to sterilize.

According to Michigan State University: Oats are a cool-season annual grass that grows well during the fall.  Some of those benefits include: forage, weed suppression, nutrient removal, erosion control, and soil softening.” Oats germinate in temperatures as low as 38 degrees F, making them a year-round crop in some areas.

Chicken grazing boxes are easy to plant. I usually reseed with whole oats from the horses' feed bins or with chicken scratch feed. Any whole grain should sprout and you don;t need to worry about unwanted plants going to seed, the chickens will keep the seedlings trimmed back.
Chicken grazing boxes are easy to plant. You don’t need to worry about unwanted plants going to seed, the chickens will keep the seedlings trimmed back.


Oat grass in your coop’s grazing boxes has an additional benefit: environmental responsibility. Although we backyard farmers bear much less responsibility than commercial farming operations, it is important to be mindful of the runoff from our coops and the health of our soil. Oat Grass is a tool in this work because it has roots that bind soil and minimize erosion. Additionally, Oat grass is actually used by organic farmers as a “nitrogen catch crop.” Chicken manure is a high-nitrogen organic material, and oat grass – unlike many plants- is not only able to tolerate high-nitrogen soil, but is able to absorb some nitrogen from the soil, lowering the amount of nitrogen in coop-run runoff.







20 thoughts on “Build these Chicken Grazing Boxes and Grow Fresh Greens in your Chicken Run Year Round”

  1. We spent the weekend making these out of old pallets for half the floor of our coop. We only have 3 backyard hens in a 5 by 10 run and 5×5 elevated coop. They freerange 95% of the time but in icy, extremely wet or stormy weather I keep them in and their run is awful during and after those times. I can’t wait to see if the oats and greens grow! What a great idea!

  2. My coop is 36′ W x 8′ H in front, 12′ front to back, with the back 36′ W x 6′ H. Built out of free pallets covered in hardware cloth. Leftover hardware cloth on 20′ X 4′ grazing boxes just planted with scratch and short 2′ to 6′ sunflowers. Should be interesting. Lol. All this for 15 birds till I start with chicks sometime.

    1. Great question! I’m pretty hands-off with them, especially since when I’m using the grazing boxes it’s typically the wet season in Missouri. I’d recommend treating them like any grass you’re trying to get to sprout- if it’s hot and dry you’ll probably want to waster them daily. Depending on the weather sometimes I’ll just toss the old water from the chicken waterer in that direction when I am refilling their drinking water.

  3. if i used expanded metal instead of mesh , would it be harmful to the chickens/ feet. its sturdier than mesh .

    1. I’d give it a try! It probably depends on how sharp the edge are. As long as the chickens aren’t forced to stand on it (like they would if it was a cage bottom) I think it would be fine to experiment with!

  4. do you think is possible to use these growing boxes for the whole flor of chichen run coop?
    …. do girls walk on it easily?

    1. The chickens probably won’t avoid the area, but if they stand on wire exclusively the risk for “bumblefoot” goes up (see an article on the issue here)

      You can have lots of boxes in run as long as some have non-wire footing. for example, you could line your run with 12 boxes, but fill every-other box with media instead of applying the wire cover. You could fill those boxes with dirt, sand for scratching, or even with small stones or oyster shells. A variety of fills would provide enrichment and make it possible for them to use the wire-topped grazing boxes without having to stand directly on the wire.

  5. I am new to chickens and I think this is absolutely brilliant, as I am looking to get the most out of small space. !!! Thank you!!!!

  6. Very cool. We just built a chicken coop this year and we have our chicks in a brooder box waiting to transfer over. Our run has no growth in it because we had to make a level spot. This would be a good idea for fresh food for them.

    Our website is if you’d ever like to check us out!

  7. What type of grain would you recommend for warmer months? My chickens can free range so I’ve buiit a box, but don’t know what would grow this time of year. We are in southern Indiana.

  8. I’m looking into this option for our 4 girls since they make short work out of the grass in their run area. I’m concerned with their nails getting caught. Has anyone had any of them break nails or anything from scratching on top of the wire mesh? Thanks!

    1. Great question! In my experience, this is one of those animal-management methods that self-train them to be safe. They may test scratching the surface once or twice, and the discomfort + ineffectiveness so will train them not to keep doing it!

  9. Would this be suitable for ducks? And I know you mentioned oat grass being a nitrogen catch crop, does this mean you leave these grazing patches in the coop all the time or do you take them out so they don’t get completely covered in coop poop.

    1. Hi Corrina! I have not tried it with ducks, but I have had ducks in the past- I think it should work great.

      Great questions! They do slowly collect poop on top (duck poop will probably drip through the mesh) so when I’m in the run or cleaning the coop I’ll either lift and shake the poop off the frame or use my carpet rake that I use for coop cleaning to sweep it off.

      I recommend moving the frame to a new spot, and replanting, every 3-4 months. Oat grass has a fairly short life-cycle and with being constantly nibbled it will eventually run out of energy to keep growing well. A new spot and new seed starts the process all over again and rotates areas of the run getting the benefits of being planted.

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